Nathula, the shortcut to China

Author : Rajshri Mehta |



True, the year may not be 2030. There is no Scotty, yet to beam me up. So, being a known traveler, I do not understand one thing. Why do they find it hard to believe when I tell them it took me just 5 minutes to physically enter Tibet-occupied China? Even Tintin could not do it.

See, now even you don't believe me!

Okkkaayy, (taking a deep exasperated breath), I will give you the proof. In fact, I will even you show how it can be done. Maybe, then India will be inspired to make me a mascot for Hindi-Chini sisterhood.

Well, my story starts as I completed my 53 months of summer in DNA and I realised that I hadn't had a proper vacation. Inspiration came in the form of an invitation from a maverick army officer. Knowing my penchant for mountain treks at height of more than 2,000 ft, he dangled a 'dream climb' of 14,200 ft if I came to Sikkim.
And one fine extremely cold December morning in Gangtok, I was all set. A multi-coloured muffler covering my ears. A colourful scarf tied around my neck. A huge jacket (combat olive green preferably —psst..robbed it from the army). Nike shoes (Woodlands don't work here). And lastly, an elegant bag for my cosmetics.

Having completed the above exercise, I excitedly jumped (actually, I had to bend) into my chariot (jeep) waiting to take me to my dream climb. The sky was painted with many hues of blue. Those coniferous trees high school geography taught me were now here.

And then 12,600 ft above sea level, I saw her — Kanchenjunga, the world's highest mountain at her best. Majestic in her demeanor, the ravishing beauty was trying to shoo away the clouds that had masked her.

And, suddenly or so it felt after a wonderful three hour journey, I had completed my dream climb. I had reached Nathula, the world's highest motorised roadway. Popularly known as whispering ears, Nathula Pass formed the gateway to Tibet before it went under Chinese control, being the shortest route to Tibetan capital Lhasa. Nathula was part of the famous silk route.

Let me halt here for a minute and share a beautiful experience I had with the Indian soldiers. With just 6kms to reach Nathula, my urban lifestyle finally undid all the high altitude strength I had garnered during my trekking experience. As I felt breathless and nauseous, we stopped at an army unit along the way. And within seconds, a swarm of soldiers were making arrangements to ease my discomfiture. One rushed to get the medic, another pulled out a chair for me to sit, another rushed in to get hot tea and biscuits. Does anyone have time to take care of some unknown in our heartless cities? For me though, everytime I think of it, I get a sense of gratitude. Thank You.

And then I walked through the gate that said "Nathula'', on the right side was a photography prohibited area, a few metres from there was the Indian Army post. Behind me was a building with the tricolor proudly fluttering which brought out the Indian in me.

I was standing in front of a building of red and golden pillars and a star. I walked close to it and hey! what am I seeing? There was a fence. Err, so that is C-H-I-N-A. That was China! Within minutes, a nattily dressed young Chinese soldier came close to the fence, smoking and clicking his camera nonstop. He had decided to get pictures of every single young lady on the Indian side.

Soon, he shed his initial indifference and started posing for photo with us tourists. Camaraderie was evident in the air in the way the Indian and Chinese soldiers interacted.

Then it happened. In the midst of all these photographs, I managed to sneak my hand to the other side of the fence. That was like entering Tibet occupied Chinese soil. And how much time it took me? 5 minutes. And the proof. The Indian army officer who captured me "entering'' into China on the camera.

Email: m_rajshri@dnaindia.net